Oregon Sushi Rice "Stump Rice"
Sushi Rice: The rice, it’s not a filler, its not suppose to be the secondary flavor...It's the heart of the whole operation. That little bit of tartness from the vinegar is key. It's giving a chic little nod to the history of sushi—back when they actually used fermentation to preserve fish and keeping it simple and clean where the magic all started. The specific recipe for the seasoned vinegar, or sushi-su, is such a gorgeous multi-tasker. It’s totally straightforward and balanced, but can also use it as the perfect base for a light pickling brine or even a simple, beautiful salad dressing. Every chef has their own little twist, their own regional flavor, but this one is that essential, classic foundation, because these days its a bit backwards where you don't get to understand the mixtures, techniques, and structure, but people want to go straight for the fish cutting. But take some time to get the rice right, and everything else just falls into place. It’s all about the foundation.
Sushi Vinegar Mixture: Akazu Red Vinegar is from the origins of Edomae and was a luxury vinegar at one point with a rich and robust umami and savory flavor. It fit the stronger profile of flavor that oregon locals were looking for, but what it also did was add a brown color to rice. When this is added with Rice Wine Vinegar it can have that classic sushi vinegar taste, but also it has a stronger flavor, and gives a aesthetic that is almost like oregon wood or brown rice. When the vinegars are brought together—the rich, mellow depth of that pricey, aged Akasu, and the clean, bright tang of the pure Komezu—it’s honest to the modern and the past. That delicate, proprietary balance is what brought Chef Kate Koo’s rice into the limelight. It says to have a firm understanding of the history, and committing to the quality that tradition absolutely demands, while still being Oregon in flavor.
Stump Sushi Rice: The color of a Stump is Brown and the color of the sushi almost seems like brown rice, plus its in "Stumptown", the nickname for Portland. The color of sushi rice is like a look at the dirt, the hustle, and resourceful grit. The name stump colored rice is sometimes just called "stump rice" that is actually referring to the Red Vinegar (Akasu) in the rice and leftover sludge and sediment from sake production that is a byproduct, the industrial fallout turned into gold. The parallel is also a historical link to Old Japantown as a way to raise awareness of its existence; and a local connection that can be even a spiritual one. The sushi frontier port like Portland is an American story of immigration and innovation. It’s the story of taking a rigid tradition and bending it just enough to survive in the forests. In the end, whether it's a settler leaving a stump or a chef reaching for Akasu, the story is the same: take a challenging, elemental piece of your environment and use ingenuity and grit to make something distinct and lasting. That's the real spirit of Portland.
Oregon Sushi Su: In the traditional sushi, the quality of the rice is considered as important as the quality of the fish—it's the very soul of the dish. By focusing on and refining sushi rice (shari), Kate Koo affirmed her commitment to the highest standard of classic technique, distinguishing her work from the often-mediocre rice foundations found in many Westernized sushi joints. This level of meticulous care for the rice elevates the entire dining experience, positioning it as a destination for truly traditionally-focused, high-end sushi in Portland. Kate Koo has been accredited with the classic Oregonian Sushi Rice recipe that uses Seasoned Vinegar that should be prepared before the Rice has completed its cooking time. Preparing Vinegar Mixture: 1/2 cup vinegar mixture or just rice wine vinegar (4% acidity), Heat the vinegar in a small saucepan over medium-low heat until just steaming (it will be about 100 degrees F). Do not boil the vinegar. Remove from the heat. Add the 2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar and 2 teaspoons salt (optional. black truffle salt) and whisk until dissolved. Add 1 gram dashi kombu (about a 1-inch square).
Rice Preparation: Rinse the 1 3/4 cups uncooked white short-grain rice in a large bowl under cold running water until the water runs clear, about 5 minutes. While rinsing, gently agitate the rice with your hands to wash off extra starch. Drain the rice in a fine-mesh colander. If using a rice cooker, set to the “white rice” or “sushi rice” setting; do not use the “quick cook” setting. Add the rinsed and drained rice and 1 1/3 cups of water to the cooker, gently move from side to side to evenly settle the rice and press start.
Stove Method: Add the rinsed and drained rice and 1 1/3 cups of water to a medium pot. Gently move the pot from side to side to evenly settle the rice. Put a piece of aluminum foil over the top of the pot before placing the lid on to create a tight seal. Bring to a boil over high heat (it is best to lower the heat just before it boils, when it begins to steam). Lower the heat to low and steam the rice for 25 minutes; do not open the lid. Remove the rice from the heat and let sit covered for 10 minutes more. Removed the dashi kombu from the seasoned vinegar if using. Transfer the cooked rice to a large bowl and immediately sprinkle the vinegar mixture evenly over the hot rice. It’s important to add the vinegar mixture to the rice as soon as it has finished cooking. If the rice sits too long it is very difficult to evenly season the rice. Depending on the altitude and climate, you may want to alter the amount of water used when cooking the rice. If you're living somewhere humid, you might want to drop the water a little bit. If you live somewhere really dry, increase it just a little bit.
Mixing in the Vinegar: Ultimately, with sushi rice we want to notice each individual grain of rice while we're mixing and eating it. Using a rice paddle or spatula, gently cut the vinegar mixture into the rice and alternately fold the rice so vinegar doesn't pool on the bottom of the bowl. Make sure the vinegar is evenly distributed throughout the rice. Spread the rice in a baking dish and let sit until it is cool enough to handle and sticks together in a ball, 5 to 10 minutes. Use the rice within 2 hours or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 day. You can use the rice at room temperature or gently reheat it using the “warm” function on a rice cooker.
Oregon Cedar Rice Tubs: Room Temperature would also apply to Controlling the Rice Temperature, so to do that the properties in a Wooden Container (Ohitsu. Honorable Wooden Tub) traditionally made with Japanese Cypress was desired for its Moisture Absorption, Aroma, Antibacterial Rot Resistance, and Thermal Properties. For those who could not get the material would opt for the Oregon variety of cypress wood, the "Port Orford Cedar" (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana), which held many of the same properties. These makeshift Ohitsu would be called "Cedar Rice Tubs" or "Orfords" in a nod to the type of tree. They held rice for several hours at the perfect temperature with its wood-lid made of oregon lumber.
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